Why won't my prints stay on the bed?

I have cleaned the bed and attempted to print the logo and the left side of the print lifts up every time. I have lowered the z axis and got a print to complete after I increased the bed temperature by five degrees to help it to hold, but even then the left corner lifted a bit.

I tried to print the frog and even tried using glue. It came up after the second pass.

Should I be using painter's tape, glue or just cleaning it better?

Is it possible that my nozzle is too low and is hitting the print, or is it too high and not sticking?

Any help would be appreciated. I can't seem to get a print to stick.

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All information is good information, I am still in the same boat. I have the 1st layer where all but one corner sticks. I found it does stick better after cleaning with alcohol, however there are so many variables, ones I am still in the dark on. I have performed the self test, x,y,z calibration so many times. Last thing I tried was running the X,Y,Z calibration; once completed I used the calibration feature auto home, then used the z adjust -mm adjustment bringing the print head down towards the bed until it felt a little friction. Then I did the V2 Calibration this was the best I have gotten so far with only one corner slightly pulling. I seriously think I am under extruding, the filament is so thin. I have seen a couple of blogs where you are supposed to test your extrusion by measuring the filament at 100mm, extruding 100mm, measuring the difference under or over, take the value do some math and use that in the SLC3R and save it as a new PLA profile. All sounds good, but how do you get the printer to extrude the 100mm. I have been running everything the LED control, not even attempted to use the SLC3R app yet. Also Prusa mentioned to adjust the extruder flow, how do you do that. It really seems there are so many gaps in the process: PINDLE, print head adjustment, the extrusion process. I have had this Prusa I3 MK2 which I am sure is a wonderful 3D printer since late December and have yet to get past the 1st layer printing.. I will be real honest if there was a shop I could take it to and pay someone with expertise to get this thing tweaked I would do it, just so I could start using it and learning more about the apps and actual printing process. I guess the correct answer is to take backup, take a deep breath, search for info and try, try again until I get it. I am very appreciative of people that take time to provide suggestions in blogs, make YouTube videos... these people are my heroes:)

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Hello Dwayne, I resolved the issue, I just followed the post I attache you, in addition I cleaned the bed with Acetone. I hope it helps you and good luck.

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By PJR

A good way to calibrate the Z axis when using firmware 3.0.5:

Start off with a cold printer.

[list]1. Align the Z axis by moving up to the top

2. Ensure there is no plastic blob on the end of the nozzle

3. Settings/Auto Home

4. With 2 sheets of copy paper, use Z Live Adjust so that the paper just starts to drag between nozzle and bed

5. Remove paper and preheat to your filament type. allow temps to settle for a couple of minutes.

6. Run Auto Home again

7. This time, with [b]a single[/b] sheet of copy paper use Z Live Adjust so that there is a light drag on the paper between nozzle and bed

8. Back off the Z Live Adjust by about 0.025mm

9. Run the V2 Calibration GCode and make final Z live adjust if necessary[/list]

NOTE: This will only work with 3.0.5RC. Earlier firmware versions have a larger minimum nozzle gap. Copy paper is usually about 0.1mm thick.

Peter

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This solved my problem! I need to back off the Z Live Adjust 0.050, also it should be noted that if the Z adjust is over 1mm it indicates the PINDLE is up too far and should be lowered.

I cleaned my bed with 91% alcohol and a paper towel and also with a high quality microfiber cloth from a camera store (not the usual rag microfiber stuff).

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Same deal with mine, I am a rookie, who can't quite get the unit I assembled to fully pass layer 1 printing portion of the V2 calibration because of certain portion not sticking. Also tried a couple of smaller print jobs, same deal. Did you assemble yours or buy pre-assembled? I found one blog where a user found a specific plastic based hair spray that caused his to stick properly. I have noticed adjusting the P.I.N.D.L.E sensor towards the bed brings the print head closer, you have to be careful though adjust a 1/4 turn at a time, to much and it will drive the print head into the bed. I haven't achieved the prize of being able to print any 3d yet, although my printer has passed all other calibration, self-tests. if you have a MK2 , I would also make sure you have the 3.09 firmware, this contains updates that take effect during the X/Y/Z calibration portion and performs bed leveling adjustments.

Update (02/08/2017)

When I said felt a little friction, I was placing two sheets of paper between the bed and the print head, adjust and pull the paper, adjusted until slight friction. Do agree with the pindle, but like you said adjust to low and you can drive the print head into the bed, two high and it wont find its calibration points. I have learned a lot, still a long way to go to get a clue though:)

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Could be so many things, depending on the material you are using, According to some (including the owner of the company) ignore the blogs on Aqua net Plastic based hairspray, etc. If you are using the PLA according to the owner, you only need the Glue stick for items with tall items with small contact on the heat bed surface. Special materials might need more like tape. I have the feeling in my case Print Head Hight, PINDLE sensor height are the keys. Below is a You Tube video link 3 Tips for the Prusa i3 MK2 3D Printer in regards to the three tips that are critical to getting the layer 1/base layer right, if you don't have that right you will not succeed, watch the video. get a try it and see:)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htc89vbx....

This community Rocks, they appear very willing to help us rookies. I am deeply grateful for people that take the time to share their expertise. They are Gold:)

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Uneven/rapid cooling or too low of a bed temperature can cause lifting. Ideally you want to print in an area with a warm ambient temperature and poor air circulation. You could try placing a large cardboard box upside down over top of the printer to prevent errant air currents from getting to the print. If that works for you, search Thingiverse for LACK enclosure. It is an enclosure you can make out of 2 Ikea tables and some polycarbonate sheeting for under $30.

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Thanks for the information

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Hello Dwayne,

Did you solve the problem?, I have the same situation, I have worked on this topic during 3 weeks and I still have't found a solution.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

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Daniel Norbutas will be eternally grateful.
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