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  1. Locate the heatbed disassembled in previous chapter.
    • Locate the heatbed disassembled in previous chapter.

    • M3x8r screws (4 pcs)

    • Heatbed comes with the print surface (yellowish foil) already stuck on so DO NOT REMOVE IT and take extra care to prevent any damage to the surface.

    • If you used M3n nuts to hold the M3x12 screws inside Y-belt-holder, it is now time to remove the nuts.

  2. Using 2mm allen key, tighten the heatbed to the Y-carriage. Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!
    • Using 2mm allen key, tighten the heatbed to the Y-carriage.

    • Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!

    • The screws should fit directly to the threads, if not, you could have turned the Y-carriage upside down.

  3. Tighten the Y-belt holder to the heatbed using the supplied 2.5 mm Allen key. Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage.
    • Tighten the Y-belt holder to the heatbed using the supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.

    • Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage.

    • Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!

    • If you have the Y-belt-holder with a slot, make sure that the screws are in the middle as shown in the picture.

  4. Take a look on the printer from the top side and make sure that lines on heatbed are perfectly parallel with the X axis rods as shown in the picture. If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct. Use nuts only on the side close to left Z axis motor.
    • Take a look on the printer from the top side and make sure that lines on heatbed are perfectly parallel with the X axis rods as shown in the picture.

    • If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct. Use nuts only on the side close to left Z axis motor.

    • This is extremely important, if the things are not in parallel, you'll have huge troubles calibrating later on!

    • If you'll adjust the nuts, make sure that the M10 threaded rod is all the way down in the slot.

  5. Slide X-axis cables through the Rambo cover while rotating the Rambo cover back to the frame. The spiral wrap must run into the Rambo cover so it is held in place when tightened up. Tighten the Rambo cover base to the frame using supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.
    • Slide X-axis cables through the Rambo cover while rotating the Rambo cover back to the frame.

    • The spiral wrap must run into the Rambo cover so it is held in place when tightened up.

    • Tighten the Rambo cover base to the frame using supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.

  6. X-axis motor
    • X-axis motor

    • X-axis endstop

    • All motor cables have their markings for easier assembly.

  7. Guide the cables from the heatbed through the side hole of the Rambo cover base. Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base. Heatbed thermistor
    • Guide the cables from the heatbed through the side hole of the Rambo cover base.

    • Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.

    • Heatbed thermistor

    • Heatbed heater

    • Note the white cable from heatbed can be also in black version, however their function is the same.

  8. Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the heatbed to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Double check the zip tie is tied firmly. Double check the zip tie is tied firmly.
    • Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the heatbed to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.

    • Double check the zip tie is tied firmly.

  9. Depending on the version of your Rambo cover your hole for extruder cables is either from the top (Var. A) or side of the cover (Var. B step 11). The principle for connecting is the same. Guide the cables from the extruder through the top hole of the Rambo cover base. Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.
    • Depending on the version of your Rambo cover your hole for extruder cables is either from the top (Var. A) or side of the cover (Var. B step 11). The principle for connecting is the same.

    • Guide the cables from the extruder through the top hole of the Rambo cover base.

    • Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.

    • Force the last spin of the spiral wrap into the hole of the Rambo.

  10. Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.
    • Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.

  11. Guide the cables from the extruder through the upper hole on the side of the Rambo cover base. Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.
    • Guide the cables from the extruder through the upper hole on the side of the Rambo cover base.

    • Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.

  12. Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.
    • Using a zip tie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.

  13. P.I.N.D.A. probe
    • P.I.N.D.A. probe

    • Extruder motor

    • Extruder heater

    • Extruder thermistor (cable going from the extruder labeled with Yellow/Green heat shrink) [Orientation does not matter]

    • Print fan (cable going from the extruder labeled with Red heat shrink)[make sure that the red wire is closer to the thermistor]

    • Extruder fan (cable going from the extruder labeled with Blue heat shrink)

    • DOUBLE CHECK the connection! It is so important to ensure the correct connections.

  14. Check again all cables are connected to the right socket on the board and connectors are plugged all the way in. Incorrect setup can cause irreversible damage!!!
    • Check again all cables are connected to the right socket on the board and connectors are plugged all the way in. Incorrect setup can cause irreversible damage!!!

  15. Depending on the version of Rambo cover the pictures might slightly differ, however the principle used in this step is the same for both. M3x40 screw (1 pcs)
    • Depending on the version of Rambo cover the pictures might slightly differ, however the principle used in this step is the same for both.

    • M3x40 screw (1 pcs)

    • Close the Rambo-cover doors

    • Make sure that no wire is pinched!

    • Tighten M3x40 screw.

  16. Congratulations, you've just disassembled Original Prusa i3 MK2 and upgraded it to Original Prusa i3 MK2S!
    • Congratulations, you've just disassembled Original Prusa i3 MK2 and upgraded it to Original Prusa i3 MK2S!

    • Before the first print, visit our last chapter - 6. Preflight check to properly setup the P.I.N.D.A. sensor.

Finish Line

29 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

235 Guides authored

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Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

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377 Guides authored

2 Comments

The colour stripe on the ribbon cable normally indicates the position of pin one on the connector. Pin one as shown on the silk screen on the Rambo PCB is at the opposite end and therefore in conflict with the illustration shown in the manual and on this video.

Which is the correct one?

Elgan - Reply

Hi Elgan, I assume you are talking about LCD cables, their correct connection is here: 8. Electronics assembly

Jakub Dolezal -

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