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  1. 2.5mm Allen key for M3 screws
    • 2.5mm Allen key for M3 screws

    • 2mm Allen key for nut alignment

  2. For MK2.5 there is a redesigned RAMBo cover case and door. In the following steps we will remove the older parts completely. Proceed with caution, as you might break the cables. MAKE SURE you won't mix old and new parts!!! Their design is sometimes similar. Using 2.5mm Allen key, remove the M3x10 screw together with the upper hinge.
    • For MK2.5 there is a redesigned RAMBo cover case and door. In the following steps we will remove the older parts completely. Proceed with caution, as you might break the cables.

    • MAKE SURE you won't mix old and new parts!!! Their design is sometimes similar.

    • Using 2.5mm Allen key, remove the M3x10 screw together with the upper hinge.

    • Remove to the RAMBO cover door.

    • Using 2.5mm Allen key, remove the M3x10 screw together with the lower hinge.

  3. Release upper two M3x10 screws holding the RAMBo board together with the RAMBo cover. Release lower two M3x10 screws holding the RAMBo board together with the RAMBo cover.
    • Release upper two M3x10 screws holding the RAMBo board together with the RAMBo cover.

    • Release lower two M3x10 screws holding the RAMBo board together with the RAMBo cover.

  4. Slightly release two M3x10 screws holding the RAMBo cover on the frame. DO NOT unscrew them completely!!! Carefully slide the RAMBo cover from the frame. Plugged cables won't allow you more than few centimetres. Separate the cover from the RAMBo board.
    • Slightly release two M3x10 screws holding the RAMBo cover on the frame. DO NOT unscrew them completely!!!

    • Carefully slide the RAMBo cover from the frame. Plugged cables won't allow you more than few centimetres.

    • Separate the cover from the RAMBo board.

    The cover on my MK2 wasn’t like this. It had to be unscrewed completely.

    Brandon Neilson - Reply

    Agreed - you have to unscrew it completely and lift away on a mk2

    Ian Smith -

  5. In order to match the wrapping style of the printer, an extra textile sleeve is included for the X-axis motor cable. You can remove the spiral wrap and replace it with the textile sleeve, or leave the wrap in place. It is up to you, this step is optional ;) For the following step, please prepare: Textile sleeve 6 x 300 mm (1x)
    • In order to match the wrapping style of the printer, an extra textile sleeve is included for the X-axis motor cable. You can remove the spiral wrap and replace it with the textile sleeve, or leave the wrap in place. It is up to you, this step is optional ;)

    • For the following step, please prepare:

    • Textile sleeve 6 x 300 mm (1x)

    • Zip tie (1x)

    • Wrap the sleeve around the X-axis motor and endstop cable. The sleeve is shorter, than both cables.

    • Secure the sleeve using a zip tie, you have to tighten the zip tie firmly and it is only a temporary fix until the Einsy case is assembled, but you can leave the zip tie in place afterwards.

    • Note the rest of this chapter was photographed with the spiral wrap, but the assembly procedures are the same for the textile sleeve.

    My kit contained only one textile sleeve so I guess I have to skip this step. :-(

    Michael Berneis - Reply

    Same here… :(((

    Alex Rhinelander -

    Hello! No worries, this textile sleeve is purely cosmetic, we simply don’t have the plastic ones anymore. But if you have them, rest assured they work just as well here.

    Martin L. - Official Prusa CS -

    It’s not only the X-axis cable but also the X-axis endstop cable which should be wrapped with the textile sleeve.

    Robert - Reply

    Hello Robert, that is correct, thank you for noticing this !

    Martin L. - Official Prusa CS -

    why haven’t you corrected the guide to include the end-stop cable then? If you don’t act on user feedback you discourage users to help

    Morten H Pedersen - Reply

    Hi Morten,

    Make sure to read each step description carefully, there are additional instructions for the endstop cable.

    Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

  6. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • RAMBo-cover-base (1x)

    • M3n nut (4x)

    • M3x10 screw (4x)

  7. Insert four M3n nuts in nut traps. Slide RAMBo inside the base and tighten it with four M3x10 screws.
    • Insert four M3n nuts in nut traps.

    • Slide RAMBo inside the base and tighten it with four M3x10 screws.

    • Tighten the screws carefully, you can damage the board.

    • Use the needle nose pliers to help with positioning the screws.

    I highly suggest seating 4 more hex nuts into the case now prior to step 14 and 18. There are 2 hex holes on each side where the wire holders will be clamped in. It’s really important to seat these hex nuts all the way down into their holes or else it will be very difficult to attach the screws later when you are trying to fit the large wire bundles into the cut outs.

    Use the trick from the extruder assembly to screw in an m3x10 screw from the other side nice and tight so that the hex nut seats way down into the plastic. If they aren’t seated all the way down you won’t be able to connect the wire clamps in on the later steps. If you don’t do this now, you’ll have to do this while the part is attached to the frame which is a lot harder to do.

    Daniel Lipsky - Reply

    Sound advice. Thanks!

    Geoff Butcher -

    The holes for the Rambo board nuts were not a snug fit and I had to put a bit of sticky tape temporarily over the nuts to stop them falling out.

    Geoff Butcher -

    Yup, did the same, thanks!

    Roland Grichnik -

    Good call; thank you!

    David H. Brown -

    Agree with adding the nuts for step 14 & 18 as would have been really awkward if i had waited.

    Martin - Reply

    Thanks for the tip about adding the nuts that will be used later.

    Joe O. - Reply

    The designer of this case should be punished by inserting the top left screw for at least ten times ;-)

    Robert - Reply

  8. Push the spiral wrap in the slot and leave some slack of the cable along the board (don't stretch the cable). See the slots on the printed part, which will be used for the M3x10 screws (those are already on the frame).
    • Push the spiral wrap in the slot and leave some slack of the cable along the board (don't stretch the cable).

    • See the slots on the printed part, which will be used for the M3x10 screws (those are already on the frame).

    • Slide the RAMBo-cover-base on the prepared M3x10 screws and align it with the edge of the Z-axis frame.

    • Using 2.5mm Allen key tighten both screws.

    do step 10 now, it is much easier to do before the Rambo-cover is attached.

    Jim Jacques - Reply

    I would move this step 7 behind step 11. It’s not important to do it at this time, and there is left plenty of space for next steps (door assembly).

    Jiri Syrovatko - Reply

    Thanks for the comments! I attached the door at this point, too, which was very easy to do.

    Roland Grichnik - Reply

    I see bolts through the nuts, suggesting that we were to mount the RAMBo board inside the base. Missing step here.

    Gordon McDonough - Reply

    Putting the board in was done in step 7 (second picture).

    Mark Jurisch -

    I would put the nuts in all the traps at this step. The nuts that hold the cable clamps (from step 15) are very hard to just push in, so it is much easier to do so while the case is still off the frame.

    Mark Jurisch - Reply

    Tento krok až po kroku 16 a 25, lépe se v tom orientuje.

    Tomáš Kempa - Reply

  9. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • RAMBo-cover-door (1x)

    • RAMBo-cover-hinge-top (1x)

    • RAMBo-cover-hinge-bottom (1x)

    • M3nS nut (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

  10. Insert M3nS nut all the way in. You can use the small screw driver to push it down if needed. Check the proper alignment with the Allen key.
    • Insert M3nS nut all the way in. You can use the small screw driver to push it down if needed.

    • Check the proper alignment with the Allen key.

    The nut was very loose and fell out when turning the door. - I aligned it with the screw and fixated it with a drop of hot-glue

    Michael Berneis - Reply

  11. Take the RAMBo-cover-hinge-bottom and push M3x10 screw through. Note there is a cutout for the screw's head in the printed part.
    • Take the RAMBo-cover-hinge-bottom and push M3x10 screw through.

    • Note there is a cutout for the screw's head in the printed part.

    • Place the hinge on the frame and tighten the screw. The hinge must be facing upwards.

    the old hinges are identical and can be used.

    Jim Jacques - Reply

    I couldn’t get the new hinge to work and had to use the o;d

    Steve Worcester - Reply

    It would have been much easier to mount these hinges before fastening the electronics cover.

    Richard Rubinstein - Reply

    Agreed, I came to the same conclusion

    Guy Hoovler -

  12. Place the RAMBo-cover-door on the lower hinge. Take the RAMBo-cover-hinge-top and push M3x10 screw through. Assemble the RAMBo-cover-hinge-top in the door and mount it to the frame.
    • Place the RAMBo-cover-door on the lower hinge.

    • Take the RAMBo-cover-hinge-top and push M3x10 screw through.

    • Assemble the RAMBo-cover-hinge-top in the door and mount it to the frame.

  13. Cable bundles are held in place by cable clips, which HAVE DIFFERENT SIZES of the inner cutout. Please ensure you are using the CORRECT CLIP for each cable bundle! RAMBo-heatbed-cable-clip is used for a smaller cable bundle, therefore its opening is smaller.
    • Cable bundles are held in place by cable clips, which HAVE DIFFERENT SIZES of the inner cutout. Please ensure you are using the CORRECT CLIP for each cable bundle!

    • RAMBo-heatbed-cable-clip is used for a smaller cable bundle, therefore its opening is smaller.

    • RAMBo-extruder-cable-clip is used for a bigger (thicker) cable bundle, therefore its opening is bigger.

  14. For the following steps please prepare: Rambo-heatbed-cable-clip (1x)
    • For the following steps please prepare:

    • Rambo-heatbed-cable-clip (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • M3n nut (2x)

    • Press the cable bundle from the heatbed in the hole on RAMBo-cover-base. Make sure the textile sleeve is partly inside the cover.

    Having taken all the cables off the Rambo board to make it easier to disassemble, it would be nice to have step 12 diagram from 8. electronics in the MK2S manual to know where to hook the cables up again before getting to step 14 where you are connecting the heated cable bundle (part 2). Plus it would be useful to have the diagram in step 19 from 8. electronics in the MK2S manual for where the LED cables go.

    Mark Forry - Reply

  15. Insert both M3n nuts in the traps on the RAMBo-cover-base, see the picture. Make sure the nuts are all the way in. Take the Rambo-heatbed-cable-clip and press it against the heatbed cable bundle. Using M3x10 screws fix the clip in place, tighten both screws equally.
    • Insert both M3n nuts in the traps on the RAMBo-cover-base, see the picture. Make sure the nuts are all the way in.

    • Take the Rambo-heatbed-cable-clip and press it against the heatbed cable bundle.

    • Using M3x10 screws fix the clip in place, tighten both screws equally.

    • If you can't reach the nuts, use temporarily longer screws, from the spare bag.

    I never experienced “tolerances” in my 5 years of 3D Printing….until this step! HOLY MOTHER OF SACRED GOD!!!!!!!

    :O

    Alex Tutusaus - Reply

    Putting in the nuts definitely should have been done before attaching it to the printer.

    Kevin - Reply

    Agreed, worked fine by me!

    See comments at step 6.

    Theo Gerrits -

    I’ve turned the printer over the PSU side and used a long (M3 x 40) screw to insert the nuts in place. Slightly thread the bolt to one nut and insert the nut on the trap. Unscrew the bolt and repeat for the other side.

    Pedro Neves - Reply

    In my case, the heatbed-cable-clip would not properly secure the textile-sleeved cable bundle even with the parts touching and the screws fully maxed out. To generate a bit more pressure in the clip, I cut one winding off the old MK2S’s spiral wrap, wrapped it around the sleeved cable bundle and then clamped it at that point. Worked like a charm!

    Roland Grichnik - Reply

    Brilliant idea. Solved my issue.

    Nic -

    Excellent tip! I’ve had the same issue and I do assume it is very important that this sleeve can’t move so that there is no friction on the heatbed cables when the heatbed is actually moving during printing. And thus to avoid those burned heatbed connecters as many of us had on the MK2(s)

    Tom Meysen -

    Thanks - had same issue

    Michael Berneis -

    Great idea, thank you!

    Guy Hoovler -

    Thanks, did the same!

    Robert -

    Prusa: Why don’t you react on this feedback and update the instructions / parts?

    Morten H Pedersen -

    The holes for nuts and screws are too small and very hard to insert. Should have been done before mounting case. Fix tolerances in the parts you print Prusa, and update the instructions when you get feedback!!

    Morten H Pedersen - Reply

    Hello Morten, it’s possible to damage the entrance for the nut if you don’t insert it carefully. That might also make further attempts to insert it harder.

    Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

  16. Connect the cables from the heatbed to the RAMBo board:
    • Connect the cables from the heatbed to the RAMBo board:

    • Heatbed thermistor

    • Heatbed heater

    • Thermistor cable can be also in white color and missing the green label. It's polarity doesn't matter, it can be plugged both ways.

    I’d love to see a picture with cables connected so that it’s clear which way around they must be inserted. In particular, it’s not clear which way is heatbed heater is to be connected. I’ve assumed with the safety pin on top since that’s the only way that it seems to be secured in place by that pin, but it also slides in with the safety pin on the bottom.

    Sergiy Byeloyzorov - Reply

    Hi Sergiy, noted and I will update this section ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

  17. For the following steps please prepare: Rambo-extruder-cable-clip (1x)
    • For the following steps please prepare:

    • Rambo-extruder-cable-clip (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • M3n nut (2x)

    • P.I.N.D.A. probe v-cable (1x)

    • Left hotend fan v-cable (1x)

  18. Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 upgrade brings several improvements from the MK3, however, there are not enough pins on the on RAMBo 13a(10a) board's connectors. Using v-cables we will split one cable into two connectors. Take v-cable for the PINDA V2 probe and connect it to the PINDA probe cable from the Extruder.
    • Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 upgrade brings several improvements from the MK3, however, there are not enough pins on the on RAMBo 13a(10a) board's connectors. Using v-cables we will split one cable into two connectors.

    • Take v-cable for the PINDA V2 probe and connect it to the PINDA probe cable from the Extruder.

    • Take v-cable for the Left hotend fan and connect it to the Left hotend fan cable from the Extruder.

    • Quick check: PINDA probe is using 4 wires, therefore, you need to connect v-cable with 3+1 wires.

    • Press the cable bundle from the Extruder in the hole on RAMBo-cover-base. Make sure the spiral wrap is partly in.

    • The nylon filament stays as a part of the bundle. No need to separate it as on the older versions of the RAMBo cover.

    I’m sure the last point should say extruder not heatbed, and there is nothing about inserting the nylon filament in the hole in the RAMBo cover

    Paul Rapson - Reply

    Hi Paul, yes you are right. Corrected, thanks ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Also, “Make sure the wire wrap sleeve is partly in”. The extruder bundle doesn’t have a textile cover.

    Ben Gruver - Reply

    Hi Ben, thanks it should be spiral wrap.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Same as above PLUS it’s impossible to clamp the spiral warp AND the wires in that neck part!

    Alex Tutusaus - Reply

    I managed, but with m3x18 bolts instead of m3x10.

    It IS a very tight fit. Make sure the cables are bundled as efficient as possible in this neck part.

    JPD de Rooij -

    Very tight fit with the 10mm screw, but possible. Easier when the nylon filament is attached which the instructions fails to mention. A tip is to take a long screw and push it through one of the wholes first as a guide. Another tip is to hold the nut in place from the rear by screwing it on a single thread on a long screw and pressing it in from the back. Hard to explain…

    Christoffer Å - Reply

    Hi Christoffer, the nylon filament should remain together with the cable bundle, no need to separate it.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    No mention about the nylon filament insertion. Need to be careful to not push the nylon filament too deep or you might damage connected cables inside (during the build or later with vibrations)

    Grégoire Saunier - Reply

    Hi Grégoire, the nylon filament should remain together with the cable bundle, no need to separate it.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    M3x10 - no way I used some M3x16 and after they where snugged down there was 1mm spare. Agree with Christoffer and understand what hw said - it helped a lot!

    Jim Jacques - Reply

    I think the printed parts can be redesigned to solve this problem for everyone. If the hex nut cut outs are on the smaller pieces that attach, then you can seat the nuts all the way into the plastic a lot better, giving the m3x10 screws a better chance of reaching them. You can also use the trick given in one of the extruder assembly steps where you screw in an m3x10 into the part all the way in to seat the hex nut all the way down before trying to assemble.

    Either that or back in step 6, install and seat the hex nuts in the proper places nice and tight (use the extruder assembly trick) since it’s way to hard to seat the hex nut when the part is already attached to the frame. I’ll post a comment on step 6 as well.

    Daniel Lipsky - Reply

    easier to just use a zip tie instead of too short bolts to hold large cable clamp

    Gregory Schmeltz - Reply

  19. Insert both M3n nuts in the traps on the RAMBo-cover-base, see the picture. Make sure the nuts are all the way in. Take the Rambo-extruder-cable-clip and press it against the extruder cable bundle. Using M3x10 screws fix the clip in place, tighten both screws equally.
    • Insert both M3n nuts in the traps on the RAMBo-cover-base, see the picture. Make sure the nuts are all the way in.

    • Take the Rambo-extruder-cable-clip and press it against the extruder cable bundle.

    • Using M3x10 screws fix the clip in place, tighten both screws equally.

    • Read the text and pictures in the next step carefully, as you need to connect the v-cables to multiple ports!

    • This step was photographed with the spiral wrap, but the assembly procedure is the same for the textile sleeve.

    “and press it against the extruder* cable bundle.” (extruder, not heatbed)

    Ben Gruver - Reply

    Hi Ben, yes this time the Extruder cable bundle, description updated. Thanks

    Jakub Dolezal -

    As some commented in the previous step, the hole for extruder cables is too tight (this could also damaged the cables). I had to use a rounded file to increase hole size of the Rambo-extruder-cable-clip (I have removed all the grip inside).

    Grégoire Saunier - Reply

    Hi Grégoire, are you sure you’ve used the correct clip? We’ve tested this many times and it fits perfectly.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Yes I am sure I did use the correct clip. Maybe it was due to my previous comment where I have separated the nylon cable to insert it in the small hole.

    Grégoire Saunier - Reply

    I also used spare M3x18 screws and it helped get the clip on satisfactorily.

    Chris Lloyd - Reply

    I used m3x18 also, the tolerances are too tight for home printing. Almost everything required filing, or drilling because we don’t have the luxury to dial in brand new PET on SLIC3R and have bridges and holes to come out perfect with no stringing.

    Carl - Reply

    I was able to easily put the spiral-wrapped bundle into the hole and fixate it properly with the supplied cable clips, without problems (and with the nylon filament inside the bundle as well). No problems with the hole size here.

    Roland Grichnik - Reply

    Must be new parts. I had no issues either.

    Nic -

    The top wall of the rambo cover was too flimsy to support my cables and in flexing has cracked. This could be made either thicker or have some support added?

    Oliver Waits - Reply

    The top of the rambo base where the hotend cables come in is too thin. The wall cracked as I was trying to screw the cable-clip on. Then it cracked even more once the hotend started moving, because it has to handle a lot of tension and it’s simply not strong enough. This part should be much thicker to handle the forces.

    Denis O. - Reply

    Denis, Oliver (@owaits, @rincewind241)

    thanks for the feedback. We've tried many times before shipping this design to you and it seemed strong enough, I will ask our testers to re-run the tests once more ;)

    Jakub Dolezal - Reply

    Absolutely impossible for me to get the cables in to the hole with the TEXTILE sleeve on. Had to widen the hole; the clips had still 3-4 distance to each other - no chance to screw them together. And, yes, I did use the right clip.

    Robert - Reply

    Hi Robert! Did you also try to twist the sleeve to make the cable bundle tighter? That worked for me.

    Martin L. - Official Prusa CS -

    Very hard to insert nuts - should be done in step 6 Prusa. Update your manuals when you get feedback.

    Morten H Pedersen - Reply

    Hi Morten,

    We’ve found this moment to be the best to insert the nuts, otherwise they might fall out.

    Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

  20. Following instructions are ONLY for users with Mini-RAMBo 1.0a!!! In case you board is different, please skip this step.
    • Following instructions are ONLY for users with Mini-RAMBo 1.0a!!! In case you board is different, please skip this step.

    • Applying this procedure on a different board might lead to irreversible damage!!!

    • For the following step, please prepare:

    • Filament sensor cable connector

    • Sharp tip (e.g. razor)

  21. Following instructions are ONLY for users with Mini-RAMBo 1.0a!!! In case you board is different, please skip this step. Carefully insert the tip in the slot for the blue wire and lift the black plastic safety pin. While the safety pin is up, pull the blue wire gently out.
    • Following instructions are ONLY for users with Mini-RAMBo 1.0a!!! In case you board is different, please skip this step.

    • Carefully insert the tip in the slot for the blue wire and lift the black plastic safety pin.

    • While the safety pin is up, pull the blue wire gently out.

    • Insert the blue wire in the empty slot on the right, mind the correct "rotation" of the steel pin on the wire.

    • Ensure the wire is fully inserted and proceed with the assembly.

  22. Connect the cables from the extruder to the RAMBo board: P.I.N.D.A. probe (v-cable, 4 wires)
    • Connect the cables from the extruder to the RAMBo board:

    • P.I.N.D.A. probe (v-cable, 4 wires)

    • Left hotend fan (v-cable, 3 wires)

    • Extruder motor (yellow label with "E")

    • Extruder heater

    • Extruder thermistor (yellow/green heat shrink, orientation does not matter)

    • Front print fan (red heat shrink, ensure that the red wire is closer to the extruder thermistor connector)

    • Filament sensor cable (use the lower row of pins in the connector and ensure the red wire is on the right, facing the outside of the board)

    “ensure that the red wire is closer to the extruder thermistor.” Yeah… So for us that doesn’t know the board layout of this PCB, would that be “red up” or “red down”?

    Christoffer Å - Reply

    Oh, you meant the thermistor cable connector, green square on the image… “Red up”

    Christoffer Å -

    Hi Christoffer, yes to the connector. Description updated to be clearer on this matter. Thanks for the feedback ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    There’s still a few more connections to make at this point if you switched the RAMBo case, it’s easy enough to go back to the original build instructions to see the locations for the x & y end stops, steppers, power… but an extra step here would be great showing the rest of the connector locations.

    Chad Scott - Reply

    Hi Chad, the instructions cover the cables (connectors), which were disconnected previously. You can leave the endstops, steppers and power and still be able to replace the RAMBo cover.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I didn’t say the cover, I said the *case* which is the entire assembly and is what is provided in the kit as components to print. If the case is switched I would hope that ALL connections were removed from the board prior to removing the board from the base.

    Chad Scott - Reply

    I can only speak for my particular RAMBo board but I imagine it’s true of all of them: the pin outs are silk-screened on the board surface in white….X end stop min, X end stop max, X stepper, Y stepper etc…you can refer to the MK2S instructions of course but the info on the board itself was enough for me to successfully re-attach all plugs correctly.

    Jeremy morgan - Reply

    One of the first steps state to disconnect all connectors from the board.

    Keith Applegarth - Reply

    When i start my printer, the ramBo starts making this loud beep, found out it was because of the extruder thermistor but don’t know the cause. Help? Please?

    Javier Guerrero - Reply

    Hi Javier, check the electronics (cables + connectors) once more and if everything is connected according to the instruction, then please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com

    Jakub Dolezal -

    In case this might be of help to someone:  if your hotend fan runs all the time and/or the PINDA2 temperature is low (look in Support menu->Temperatures), check the two 2-pin plugs from the extruder fan and PINDA2 adapters that you plug into the center of RAMBo.  I my case I had them swapped.

    John Lee - Reply

    “Follow the cables inside RAMBo cover, locate the connectors and unplug all of them.”

    “Now, carefully remove all cables, spiral wrap and the filament away from the RAMBo case.”

    2. Disassembly

    The disassembly step seems to indicate that all of the cables should be disconnected from the board, but there are no instructions for replacing the rest of the cables.

    Jared Deckard - Reply

    Hi Jared,

    sorry for the confusion. The step is all about the extruder cable bundle, therefore you should unplug all the cables from the extruder only. I updated the description. Please use MK2S assembly manual to connect the remaining cables: 8. Electronics assembly

    Jakub Dolezal -

    My 14yr old son could have written better instructions for this section never even having seen any of this before!

    Randy H - Reply

    Hi Randy, it must be great to have such a smart son ;) Now, which instructions you find difficult to follow?

    Jakub Dolezal -

    What about the single +1 cables from the Y split for the PINDA and FAN splits, where do they go??

    Alex Tutusaus - Reply

    Hi Alex, sorry I don't follow, can you please send a picture? The “v-cables” have to be connected according to the photo. See the blue and pink rectangles.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I have an odd ball question about the Noctua fan. The mk2s voltage is 12v and the Noctua fan is 5v. How does this set up bump down the voltage for this fan?

    Thomas Lemieux - Reply

    Hi Thomas,

    The Noctua fan is powered according to it specficication via the splitter cable.

    Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

    The selftest reported an error with the filament sensor and I found out I had the connector connected to the upper row of the designated connector on the board. Of course my fault, but I noticed that the light blue square in the picture is effectively blocking the upper row, so I wasn’t even aware of two rows, though you do mention it in the text. Maybe a smaller square, which reveals better the upper row?

    S.W. Bijleveld - Reply

    Hello, the guide specifically mentions to use the bottom row to avoid this situation :) Luckily the top row is inactive, so it will not damage the sensor. We will consider adding another warning there.

    Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

  23. M3x40 screw (1x) Close the RAMBo-cover-door.
    • M3x40 screw (1x)

    • Close the RAMBo-cover-door.

    • Make sure that no wire is pinched!

    • Tighten the M3x40 screw.

    Rambo box too small, make larger so wires can be looped neatly.

    Jim Jacques - Reply

    Hi Jim, the size of the box, namely the width, is limited by the frame. However, it is possible to arrange the cables neatly in the current version, I’ve tested it myself several times.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Jakub, Would it be possible to add a picture of your wiring set up to show a known solution?

    Clinton Sallee - Reply

    Hi Clinton, do you mean the cable arrangement inside the RAMBo case?

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I would like to see a few of the cables be shorter. There is too much length left after they are connected. This makes it hard to bend, poke, and fold the extra length of wires into the Rambo box. With all the other tolerances being precise, why can’t the wire / cable lengths be adjusted?

    Joe O. - Reply

  24. Congratulations, you've just assembled the Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 3D printer!
    • Congratulations, you've just assembled the Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 3D printer!

    • You're almost there... Just finish the chapter 7. Preflight check

    Can I pack out my micro switch end stop by 1mm?

    This is the horizontal travel limit switch on the left hand side.

    The space is very tight and I have placed all the wires as your instructions.

    I think it will be ok as the printer needs to now be calibrated.

    Can you confirm it is ok or not.

    Laurie Barton - Reply

    Hi there, I would not recommend doing that. If you move with the end-stop you might compromise the whole calibration. Can you please share with me a photo of your cable management behind the extruder? Thanks

    Tomáš - Reply

Finish Line

118 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

235 Guides authored

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Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

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377 Guides authored

7 Comments

Yahoo ! Now I know where to connect my PINDA v2 probe. Thanks

Dragos - Reply

You’re welcome ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

I redesigned the cable clips so that the nuts went into them rather than into the RAMBo Base because the nuts got stuck in the first one and damaged it and reprinting cable clips is much quicker and less material dependent than printing new RAMBo bases.

Paul Rapson - Reply

These instructions are the worst thing about Prusa printers. Are these even proof read and followed by people who are doing actual upgrades from the starting configuration as in the title of the manual?

Charles Larson - Reply

Hey Charles.

If you have any feedback, then please do not hesitate to post it here.

I’ve noticed that you’ve been following wrong guides, so perhaps that’s what caused problems during the assembly.

Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

Can I upgrade from Mk2S to Mk2.5 without the updated rambo cover.

Travis Turner - Reply

Hello Trevis, yes, you can.

Martin L. - Official Prusa CS -

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